South East Texas Tomato Festival
Saturday June 2, 2012
12:30pm ~ 3pm (Setup 11:30am)
~ 6th Annual Tomato Tasting~
Palmetto State Park (Group Picnic Pavilion / Refrectory) in Gonzales, TX

[ Information on this event and Photos of Past Events >> ]

Our mission is to introduce heirloom tomatoes to Central and South Texas gardeners and farmers alike, dispel the myths that only ‘heat setter’ varieties can be grown here, and offer advice and seeds wherever we can. So it was great to see folks asking lots of questions (including a few stumpers!), gathering seeds, and talking shop.

View photos of the 2011 SETTFest!

South East Texas Tomato Festival
Saturday June 18, 2011
12:30pm ~ 3pm (Setup 11:30am)
~ 5th Annual Tomato Tasting~
Palmetto State Park (Group Picnic Pavilion / Refrectory) in Gonzales, TX

[ Information on this event and Photos of Past Events >> ]

Any tomatoes you have on hand can be used. Meaty paste types are not necessary. Got a buildup of cherry tomatoes? Throw ‘em in too.

The recipe is rather flexible, and has been modified slightly for my own preferences. I tend to use what is on hand if I have most of the ingredients and don’t have time or inclination to run to the store. When I made a batch last fall, I didn’t have onions, but plenty of garlic. So, I just doubled the amount of garlic (we really like garlic!) I’ve also made it without oregano and used more basil, added more peppers for a spicier sauce, etc.

I should add that based on reader feedback, if you put fresh basil or oregano leaves or other ingredients on the top like I have pictured, they can burn. It is probably best to combine everything by stirring a bit before you pop your pan(s) into the oven.

Here’s my basic recipe:

• 5-7 pounds of tomatoes, washed – halved or quartered depending on size
• 1 large onion, or two small – diced
• 18-25 garlic cloves, peeled
• 2-3 moderate heat peppers, jalapenos or similar
• 1/4-1/3 cup good quality extra virgin olive oil (I use Colavita)
• 2 Tbs of dried oregano or Italian seasoning – or fresh oregano if available
• 1-2 Tbs dried basil, or large handful of fresh basil
• Combine ingredients in roasting pan(s), and cook at 400 – 450F for 2 to 4 hours to desired consistency – larger batches may take longer
• Salt to taste – I don’t usually find the need to add salt
• Let cool and run through food mill

Peeling and deseeding tomatoes is not necessary. The original recipe suggests coring the tomatoes, but I don’t bother as my Spremy Electric Tomato Strainer does a great job at removing seeds, skin and cores. Be sure and cut off any bad spots, including severe cracking in case mold or bacteria is present.

I usually process several hundred pounds of tomatoes a year, so the Spremy was a great investment for me. However, if you are looking for a more affordable alternative (about $50), some who have tried this recipe say the OXO Food Mill works great too.

Note: If you don’t have a food mill, you can still make this sauce. I would recommend blanching and peeling the tomatoes first and removing the cores, though. Peppers would need to be diced – or use powder. Use a hand-held potato masher or food processor to break the roasted tomatoes up a bit. Finished product will be more chunky than what you would get by using a food mill, but is still delicious.

Tip: To quickly and easily peel the garlic, separate each bulb into individual cloves, and microwave on high for one minute between two paper plates (they may pop a bit, so don’t be startled.) Allow to cool for a few minutes before attempting to remove the clove covers, or you may burn your fingers. This will lightly “roast” the garlic and loosen the skins so that they slip right off. However, if you have a good quality food mill, you can likely throw in the garlic cloves without bothering to peel them first if you wish.

You will need to periodically check on the roasting tomatoes. I like to set a clip-on timer for about 45 min and take a look every time the timer goes off. Stir or mash occasionally to distribute the bottom layers to the top. You do want some light blackening of the cut tomato surfaces to occur, but not burning. The recommended temperature in the original recipe is 450F, but I sometimes roast at 400F so I can extend the time between checking/stirring while I am doing other things. As the sauce starts to really thicken up, you’ll want to pay more frequent attention.

Tip: I use a hand-held potato masher a couple of times during the roasting process, as it seems to speed things up a bit.

Roasted sauce can be made in small or large batches, just adjust the recipe accordingly. I prefer to make very large batches when my harvest starts to pile up, as it’s a quick way to clear oodles of counter space. I save a lot of seeds and like to combine my seed saving with sauce making whenever possible, so I don’t waste the tomatoes after extracting the seeds. Larger batches may take more time, hence the wide range of suggested cooking times. Cooking to a thick consistency will take longer, so will using the lower suggested temperature range.

This sauce is probably only safe to keep in the refrigerator for about 5 – 7 days tops. For longer term storage, put into freezer bags, label and lay the bags flat in a stack in your freezer. I’ve found that a quart sized freezer bag filled to about a 1″ thickness when laid flat is plenty for a dinner for two. Roasted sauce can be pressure canned, but the boiling water bath method is considered unsafe, mainly because of the olive oil. Consult the current Ball Blue Book or other authoritative canning guidelines for recommended times and procedures if you are considering canning the sauce.

35-40 pounds of tomatoes make about a gallon of sauce, but if you don’t cook the sauce down to an almost paste-like consistency as I do, you may end up with a little more volume. A gallon may not sound like a lot of finished product for all those tomatoes, but one cup will sauce about a pound of pasta. Roasted sauce is very concentrated and rich.

When reheating sauce to serve, do not simmer for extended periods of time. Doing so can cook out some of that garden fresh goodness, which was the whole point in making this wonderful oven roasted sauce in the first place. Warm on medium or med-low heat to the desired temperature, then combine with cooked pasta and serve. If adding ground meats (sausage, ground chuck, etc), brown and drain, then combine with sauce and heat.

Spring Crop
Start seeds: December 25th – January 15th
Transplant: Feb 21st – March 18th (protect from late frosts if necessary)
Fruit set: April 1st – May 15th
Usual peak harvest: May 15th – July 10th

Fall Crop
Start seeds: June 1st – July 1st
Rooting cuttings: June 15th – July 25th
Transplant: July 21st – August 15th
Fruit set: August 21st – September 21st
Harvest: October 7th – early December (depending on weather)

Vegetable Gardening Calendars

Travis County/Austin area (zone 8b)

Harris County/Houston area (zone 9a-9b)

Houston/Bob Randall Guidelines

To my mind, this is not a question that can be answered easily by simply providing a list.

Timely planting is every bit as important as variety selection. A common mistake new tomato growers in Texas make is to plant too late. Even a couple of weeks can make a major difference in getting a decent harvest from any variety before the heat kicks in, even from some of the “heat setter” types – which frequently don’t taste very good.

Plant early! Protect plants if necessary. In Central and South Texas, a good target plant out date is usually the first to second week of March. This also means you will need to get your seeds started before Jan 15. Planting out in late March or early April is usually too late.

Also, different people define tomato success in various ways. I primarily grow for taste, and have a large garden with plenty of plants, so the productivity of any one plant or variety is not a major concern of mine. If a tomato is not very good to great tasting to me, I probably won’t grow it again no matter how productive the variety was.

Others may only have room for just a few plants and so productivity is likely going to be a major concern. A superb tasting variety that only gives a gardener 5-6 tomatoes per plant may not be considered so much of a “success” if they’ve only got ten tomato plants total in the garden and a large family who loves to eat plenty of tomatoes.

Are Heirlooms More Difficult?

We come across a lot of blanket statements out there like “heirloom tomatoes don’t do well in Texas” and “it is better to grow hybrids”. However, we’ve found that almost any tomato variety can be grown here when planted at the right time and properly cared for. It is true that some varieties are noticeably more productive than others, but this is no reason to exclude heirloom varieties from your garden in favor of hybrids, because some heirloom or open pollinated varieties can be plenty productive too. A wise gardener grows a variety of different tomatoes to find which do the best for him or her in terms of productivity, flavor, and other factors.

We encourage gardeners who are just starting out to grow a variety of varieties to see what works best for them, and also what may appeal to their tastes. We present below, a short list of fairly reliable, productive tomatoes that have scored well with us for flavor:

• Jet Star — F1 hybrid medium fruited red variety developed in 1948 by Harris Seed Co.; widely available in seed packets and plants have been spotted at major retailers and some nurseries
• [Arkansas] Traveler — An excellent dark pink medium fruited tomato developed and released by the University of Arkansas in 1971; 4-6 ft tall plant; plants are available almost universally at better nurseries
• Gregori’s Altai — Heirloom Russian variety; large pink beefsteaks on a 4-6 ft tall plant; exceptionally early
• Break O’Day — 7-8 oz uniform red globes with very good flavor and productivity on compact 4 ft plants
• Momotaro — F1 hybrid pink, tennis ball sized globes with great flavor and productivity on 4-6 ft tall plants
• Sun Gold — F1 hybrid goldish-yellow cherry tomato; extremely productive on a very large plant — 8-12 feet
• Black Cherry — Dusky purplish-dark cherry tomato; very productive on a large plant — 6-8 ft tall; developed by the late Vince Sapp of Tomato Growers Supply
• Sweet Quartz — One of the better pinkish-red cherry tomatoes; extremely productive on a large plant — 6-8 feet tall;

Jet Star	Arkansas Traveler
Gregori’s Altai	Break O’Day
Momotaro	Sun Gold
Black Cherry

Here is a short list of some of our top favorites on taste alone. We usually get at least 8 good tomatoes minimum per plant from all the varieties listed by planting early, sometimes a lot more:

• Brandywine (aka Brandywine Sudduth’s, aka Pink Brandywine)
• Prue (a paste or roma-shaped tomato)
• Cherokee Purple (similar to Indian Stripe)
• Earl’s Faux
• Stump of the World
• Wes
• Aunt Gertie’s Gold

Note: Varieties recommended above are just a few we like and are by no means an inclusive list of our favorites. Also, we’ve primarily listed varieties that have at least fair commercial availability for the seed at this time.

There are several reputable sources for tomato seeds, but two we particularly like based on their selection and service are Tomato Growers Supply and Victory Seeds. Both of these companies are convenient to order from online, germination rates are good, crossed seeds are infrequent, and service is prompt, dependable, and courteous.

Tomato Growers Supply has a great selection of both open-pollinated/heirloom and hybrid tomato, pepper, and eggplant seeds.

Victory Seeds is known for having the most complete Livingston tomato variety collection around and has a fantastic selection of heirloom and historical tomato varieties.

Other vendors to consider for vegetable seeds include:

Sand Hill Preservation is known for their extraordinary melon varieties and poultry selection, while their tomato catalog selection contains many varieties which remain difficult to find outside of private collectors.

Orders for Sand Hill must be submitted via snail mail (no online ordering), and only checks and money orders are accepted. They also do not take orders from August 15 to December 25, which can be a bit inconvenient for us Texas growers. Quantities are generous and prices are very reasonable.

Marianna’s Heirloom Seeds specializes in some of the more unusual varieties of tomato seed. Her selection of eggplant and peppers is also good, and Marianne carries seed for several sweet Italian frying type peppers, which we have found generally do better here in Texas than bell types. Online ordering is available (via PayPal).

Additional Recommended Seed Vendors

• Johnny’s Selected Seeds
• Gourmet Seed International
• Wilhite Seed
• Heirloom Seeds (in PA)
• Tatiana’s Tomato Seeds
• Wild Boar Farms

Plant Sources

If you are looking for a mail order source that has a great selection of well-grown open pollinated and heirloom transplants, check out Selected Plants.

Houston (Inside Loop 610) nurseries have gone out of their way to distinguish their offerings with unique choices of tomato and pepper seedlings you’ll be hard-pressed to find anywhere else.

• Wabash Antiques
• Another Place in Time
• Southwest Fertilizer
• Buchanan’s Native Plants

Houston (Outside Loop 610) nurseries all carry a selection of tomato varieties including the ubiquitous Chef Jeff’s line of tomato and pepper plants which have some good choices.

• RCW Nurseries (249@8)
• Plants for All Seasons (249@Louetta)
• Cornelius Nurseries (1960)
• Houston Plants & Garden World (Several)

One good choice for Austin and surrounding areas is Bloomer’s in Elgin, TX. They grow and sell an eclectic mix of tomato and other vegetable varieties.

Another nursery I recently discovered in Austin that is worth checking out for tomato and other vegetable and herb transplants is The Natural Gardener. Their selection of organic amendments (both bagged and bulk) is amazing, and they brew compost tea on-site, which is available for sale Fri-Sun.

We are currently inquiring about other nurseries in Austin as well as San Antonio.

Dallas, Fort Worth, and Plano have nearly 20 Calloway’s Nurseries which carry the Chef Jeff’s line of tomatoes and other veggies.

Please let us know if you have had a positive experience at any local nurseries in Central or South Texas that are worthy of mention on this website.

NOTE – Just because a vendor is not listed does not necessarily mean they aren’t a good source. We’ve merely listed some recommendations based on companies we have personally dealt with in the past and been pleased with. To find out more information about any mail order vendor you may have questions/concerns about, go to The Garden Watchdog and look them up.

While we do grow a few dwarf and determinate tomato varieties, the vast majority of the tomato varieties we grow are indeterminate, producing 5-10′ tall plants. The cone-shaped tomato cages found stacked floor to ceiling at big box retail stores are fine for the smaller varieties, but absolutely will not support our larger plants.

Here, we present the methods we prefer or recommend for adequately supporting indeterminate or semi-determinate varieties. We’ll discuss the advantages and disadvantages of each as well:

• Texas Tomato Cages™
• Concrete Reinforcement Wire (CRW) cages
• Galvanized “C” Cages
• Florida Weave
• PVC Cages
• Staking
• Cattle Panels

Texas Tomato Cages™

These premium cages are made of galvanized metal (little or no rust), foldable for easy storage, and solidly constructed. The cages come in two sections, a bottom and a top. They are also expensive (nearly $24 per cage including shipping and tax), but will last a lifetime if properly taken care of.

The standard/large cage is 24″ in diameter and 6′ tall. We also occasionally like to use the 18″ wide cages for containers or some of the more droopy foliaged heart/paste varieties like Prue or Wes. Really, the only disadvantage to these is the cost — in our opinion these are by far the best ready-to-use cages on the market. Visit Texas Tomato Cages website for more information.

(Texas cages in my ‘07 garden)

Concrete Reinforcement Wire (CRW) Cages

These are also a great way to support plants. However, you will need to make them yourself (use caution and wear a long sleeved shirt, gloves, and eye protection when cutting the wire) and they are not foldable, so will take up a fair amount of room in your yard in the off-season, especially if you grow a lot of plants.

They will last many years (we have heard of folks who still use CRW cages they made 20 years ago), although they do rust. One way to somewhat mitigate the storage space they will take up is to make some of the cages a slightly smaller diameter, so that they can be stored inside of the larger ones.

It is generally recommended to make a 24″ diameter cage, but some prefer them a bit smaller. There is no need to cut off the bottom so that the cages can be stuck into the ground a few inches, as if will not make the cages stable enough for our occasional high winds, and you will lose a bit of cage height by doing so. Stabilize the cages using lengths of rebar driven at least a foot into the ground and secured to the cages with wire or zip ties.

(Photos of Earl’s Faux and Aunt Gertie’s Gold courtesy of Earl Cadenhead in Columbus, OH)

Galvanized “C” Cages

Galvanized fence is cheap and comes in 50, 100, and 150 foot rolls up to 5 feet tall. The main benefit of galvanized fence is that it is lightweight, nearly as strong as the heavier Concrete Reinforcing Wire (as described above) and does not rust. The drawback, which has kept some people from seriously considering them for cages, is that the fence holes are a mere 2″ x 4″ — too small to accommodate any but the smallest of hands.

The solution Morgan found is to prop the ends of the cage open with lengths of heavy wire. This gap allows tending to the plants and harvesting. Cages should be zip-tied together once the plants start getting taller. Another solution (pictured below) is to add T-posts to your garden bed and attach the cage ends to them. Either way, at ~$80 for 20 cages and a couple hours of work, it is one of the cheapest cage solutions we’ve seen.

Tip: Galvanized fence comes tightly wound. To unspool it, ask a friend or use a couple of bricks to secure the roll while you unroll and flatten sections of it by walking on it. It will still have enough “spring” to form a circle once released.

Hint: Use heavy wire snips to cut the fence. A 2 foot wide cage would require just over 6 feet of material. But since we are leaving an approximate 1 foot gap in each cage, then we should cut lengths of fence approximately 5 feet by 5 feet.

(Morgan’s Galvanized “C” Cages, anchored together using zip ties)

(Photo courtesy of Bully in Michigan, “C” Cages anchored using posts)

Florida weave

Requiring less maintenance than staking and able to support more plants at a lower cost, Florida Weave is a process of “weaving” tomato plants using heavy garden twine between stakes (typically placed between every other plant) to support and contain the plants.

There is still a bit more work involved when compared to just caging. Twine will need to be added periodically to support the plants as they grow, also, the plants will need to be trained into the weave. For instructions, see How Do I Use Florida Weave?

(Photo courtesy of Michael Gunn in Pasadena, Texas)

PVC Cages

PVC cages are made from lengths of PVC and connectors. These are comparable in cost to Texas cages, plus there is some work and time involved in making them. In addition, the components have to be reassembled each year, if one is disassembling the cages at the end of the growing season. However, they are very sturdy and are presented as one of many support alternatives. See Tom Matkey’s PVC Tomato Cages for pictures and instructions.

(Photos courtesy of Tom Matkey)

Staking

Staking is a frequently recommended means of supporting tomato plants, however, it requires a fair amount of maintenance for indeterminate tomato varieties. Six to eight foot stakes driven at least a foot into the ground are recommended.

You will need to periodically tie up the plants to the stakes using garden twine or the stretchable green garden tape – really, anything you have on hand that will not cut into the plants can be used, some even cut up old worn out t-shirts into strips and use that as ties. Wooden stakes can be used, but since termites are so prevalent in our area, they may not last long unless they are treated wood. We generally prefer the 8ft green plastic coated metal stakes which can be found at many large home improvement stores. Metal T-posts can also be used as well if you can find ones that are at least 6′ tall for indeterminates, because you will lose 1′ driving them in to make them stable.

(Photo courtesy of “Grub” Lockwood in Australia, staked tomato plants and misc vegetable containers)

Cattle Panels

Neither one of us has personally used cattle panels to support plants, but thought it might be worthy of mention in order to provide another good alternative to support indeterminate plants. We have seen instances where tomato gardeners made a huge garden arch with a panel and planted their tomato plants on the outside. We’ve also seen instances where folks put long lengths of panel in their beds or rows and then shored the panels up with posts every few feet. If using this method, you’ll need to periodically tie up your plants to the panels and/or train them into the panels.

Sprawling

You may be tempted to allow your tomato plants to sprawl along the ground, as they do in their native environment. However, we have found that this does not work particularly well in our humid South East Texas climate.

Disease pressure here is high due to our heat, humidity, and occasional torrential spring and early summer rains. Plants and fruits will be more susceptible to Early Blight, Anthracose, and other assorted rots and fungal diseases. If you intend to sprawl, be prepared to grow extra for the slugs, birds, and other critters. Plant spacing would need to be quite a bit more generous than with caged or staked plants, allowing at least 5 feet between rows and 4 feet between plants within a row. A heavy layer of mulch would be a must.

The most common and problematic diseases of tomato plants in Central and South Texas are foliar fungal (rather than systemic) diseases such as Early Blight and Septoria Leaf Spot. We also occasionally see some minor Bacterial Speck, but have not found that these usually prevent the possibility of obtaining a good harvest here.

Early Blight

We may also encounter various fruit rots and spots later in the season, especially if rains are heavy. This can be due to a variety of reasons, including late blight, advanced/untreated early blight, pythium and alternaria rots, anthracnose, etc. Good cultural practices, including mulching, removing diseased fruits/foliage, and frequent picking can cut down on the frequency of fruit rots.

Blossom End Rot is not a disease at all but is instead a physiological issue with nutrient uptake. BER is typically caused by uneven watering/moisture and usually goes away later in the season. Its effects can be somewhat mitigated through proper watering techniques. We have found that the application of Dolomitic (not hydrated) lime can also be helpful, but you may not need it. If in doubt, have a soil test done first.

Blossom End Rot

Root Knot Nematodes can occasionally be a problem, especially for those with sandy soil. Nematodes cause root galling and affect the ability of the roots to uptake water and nutrients. Signs of a nematode infestation are visible bumps (galls) on the roots, wilting, yellowing of leaves, and stunted plants. Commonly suggested methods to control nematodes include planting cover crops of elbon rye, marigolds, or brassicas, but results vary. Amending the soil with lots of organic matter may also help, as well as rotating crops.

Some folks are getting good to great results by pretreating planting areas using mustard based products such as Dazitol, or even by just working some mustard powder into the planting hole when setting out their transplants. If you have problems with nematodes, yet another option is to grow in containers.

Actinovate might also be worth a try, and there is some anecdotal evidence out there to suggest that it might help to create a favorable environment for the roots to thrive and resist RKN. Adding sugar or molasses to the planting hole can also help.

Another option is to grow Nematode tolerant varieties (frequently hybrids) denoted by a “N” following the variety name in the catalog or on a plant tag description. However, we have found that most N tolerant varieties may not always be the most flavorful. Some we do like for taste include Sun Gold, Better Boy, Sweet Quartz, Mortgage Lifter VFN, and Momotaro — just to name a few.

Note: Tolerance does not mean complete resistance. If the infestation is severe, even N tolerant plants will eventually succumb, but it can buy you some time — perhaps enough time to get a good harvest.

Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus (TSWV) is a devastating tomato disease for some folks in the Panhandle, but is not generally seen that much in Central and South Texas at this time. TSWV is transmitted to tomato plants via thrips. Ways to minimize the possibility of TSWV include keeping weeds mowed and avoiding plantings of known host plants close to or in your gardening area. Specifically, be aware that marigolds are a common ornamental host plant for thrips (and spider mites) in our area, even though this goes somewhat against old garden lore that suggests marigolds are a good “companion” plant for tomatoes.

Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus courtesy MSUCares

Fusarium and Verticillium wilts are systemic fungal diseases and are not typically seen in Texas. These diseases would be present in the soil and thus infect plants via the root system. Treatment options tend to be limited for both of these fungal wilts, but luckily, they are rather uncommon in our area. Bacterial wilts are also systemic, and tend to be uncommon in our area.

General Disease Prevention Suggestions

• Watering — Water plants in the morning or early afternoon whenever possible, and water the soil, not the foliage. Do not be tempted to overwater. Water deeply and infrequently from the very beginning to train your plants, as this will tend to cause them to drive their roots deep (to seek water), which will lead to healthier plants that are better able to fight off various stresses. We generally prefer to water our plants no more than once every 3-4 days or so, even during the worst drought weather and hot temps. Soaker hoses or drip tubing (Netafim, for example) are our preferred method of watering plants.
• Location — If at all possible, site your plants where they get good early morning sun so that foliage dries out quickly from any accumulation of overnight rain or morning dew.
• Mulch — Mulching can help in limiting splashback of fungal spores onto the foliage from the soil. It can also assist you in your efforts to water deeply and infrequently as a layer of mulch will significantly cut down on evaporation. Just be careful not to pile up too much mulch right up next to the stem — be sure to leave a gap of an inch or two to avoid stem rot. Several inches of pine or wheat straw, coastal hay, shredded black-and-white newspaper, shredded leaves, and untreated pine bark are possible mulch choices. Ideally, install your soaker hoses first, then put mulch on top of them to keep any wetting of the bottom foliage to a minimum.
• Spacing — Space plants 24″ to 36″ apart for proper airflow. This will tend to limit the chances of disease from spreading from plant-to-plant and will also avoid areas of dense foliage between plants where insects may hide.
• Removing diseased foliage — Remove and dispose of diseased foliage on your plants periodically to minimize the possibility of fungal disease spreading to the rest of your plants. Do not add diseased foliage to compost piles.
• Selective Pruning — There is a lot of advice out there on pruning and “suckering” to reduce the foliage on a tomato plant to a “main leader”. We do not subscribe to these approaches, however we do believe in cleanup of dense thickets of foliage, as well as any foliage which may touch the ground. After 3-4 weeks of growth and plants have reached 36″ tall, we make it a habit of cleaning up the bottom 12″ inches of foliage. This can be helpful in allowing the plants to dry out more quickly after rains and morning dew. If plants become extremely cramped in their cages to the point that good airflow is inhibited, some light thinning of the foliage is recommended. Otherwise, we have found that it is wise to leave most of the foliage on for both maximum photosynthesis and protection of the fruits from sunscald.


Sunscald

• Preventative spraying — From the day of planting out, and then frequently in the early season, we treat plants with Daconil (Chlorothalonil) or another fungal preventative to help the plants get off to a good start and “reach a critical mass”. Later in the season, we are less likely to continue spraying plants, especially if they look healthy after significant fruit set has been achieved. In a particularly wet year, application is more frequent compared to a year lacking in rainfall. Daconil is a non-systemic fungicide that coats the foliage in order to limit fungal spore attachment.

  Daconil is not a cure-all, and will not reverse existing disease present on foliage. It is best used as a preventative from the get-go, applied early and regularly, if at all. Daconil can usually be found at most box stores or gardening centers labeled as either Ortho Garden Disease Control or Daconil in a 29.6% concentration. Mix up small batches following the instructions. Pre-mixed spray bottles of Daconil have poor application and are not cost effective if you are growing more than a couple of plants.

  Actinovate is an organic alternative to Daconil for fungal disease prevention and control, and so is Exel LG. I’ve found they work fairly well if used regularly and early, but are best used in conjunction with each other as they have different modes of action and neither one when used alone is as broad spectrum as Daconil. Either alternate between the two products for your weekly sprayings, or you can mix them together.

Pests

Stink bugs and Leaf-footed bugs are frequently a problem in our area because they will damage the fruit, leaving behind inedible corky white spots. Soap sprays and neem oil can help in controlling the immature bugs (nymphs), but may not have always much of an effect on mature bugs. Bugs and nymphs should be removed from plants and squashed whenever you see them. They can also be knocked into a bucket of very soapy water, or vacuumed off using a hand-held vacuum. Surround, a finely milled kaolin clay, can be mixed with water and sprayed onto the plants to repel them. Trap crops such as millet can sometimes be effective as stink bugs usually find those crops to be more attractive. It’s much easier to see and collect stink bugs on millet then in the dense foliage of a tomato plant. Chemical (non-organic) controls for stink bugs include Ortho Bug-b-Gon Max (Bifenthrin) spray and Sevin (Carbaryl) spray or dust.

Adult leaf-footed bugs

Leaf-footed nymphs

Not every insect encountered in the garden is an enemy.

Assassin Bugs can look similar in appearance to leaf-footed or stink bugs from a distance, but have distinct differences in leg formation and other distinguishing characteristics. Wheel bugs, a type of assassin bug, have a serrated “wheel” protruding from the top of the thorax. They are not harmful to your tomatoes, and are in fact a highly beneficial insect which will prey on many other insects in your garden. Assassin bugs usually travel alone which can be used to help identify them. Nymphs look similar to leaf-footed and stink bug nymphs, so keep that in mind and attempt to make a proper ID before reaching for a pesticide.

Keep an eye out for Cornworms and Fruitworms, as they will tend to bore into the fruits and cause damage. More often than not, fruitworms will eventually find your tomato plants.

Fruitworm damage

Hornworms can eat an amazing amount of foliage relative to their size. One tomato hornworm can eat half of a tomato plant per day.

Hormworm

Note: If you find a hornworm that has been parasitized by Braconid wasps (white eggs on its back), leave it be, as these are beneficial wasps that will kill the hornworm before it does substantial damage.

B.T. (Bacillus Thuringiensis) is a bacterium which is ingested by caterpillars and worms and causes them to lose their appetite. It is sold either as a powder (Dipel Dust) or as a liquid concentrate (BT Worm Killer). Used early and regularly in the season, it will keep the population under control before they have a chance to multiply and do serious damage. BT does not kill on contact, but instead is used as a preventative.

Both Spider Mites and Whiteflies can sometimes be a problem, but usually tend to be less problematic in our area than the above-mentioned pests. Spider mites are much more frequently seen during dry/drought years, or in the more arid areas of Texas. Both can usually be controlled with regular use of soap sprays or neem oil, but it is important to become familiar with the early signs of damage — dulling of foliage and/or rasping (tiny lighter spots on leaves) — so you can treat if necessary before the population gets a foothold and does major damage to your plants.

A magnifying hand lens may be helpful in spotting them early on – look on the undersides of the leaves for moving dots and thin wispy webbing. We have found that severe spider mite infestations cannot always be effectively treated using soap sprays or neem oil. Pyganic (pyrethrin) is an expensive concentrate which kills spider mites on contact.

Note: Overuse of the broad spectrum insecticide Sevin has the potential to cause mite problems down the road, as it kills other insects that prey on them. Sevin is not effective against spider mites. You can end up with a double whammy effect by using it if your garden is prone to mite problems. Just keep that in mind before reaching for the Sevin dust and regularly coating your plants in it as a general all-purpose bug preventative.

Suggested Reading

• Texas A&M Tomato Problem Solver
• University of Florida (IFAS Extension) tomato pest/disease guides
• Cornell Vegetable MD Online

Container growing is a quick and easy way to expand your available gardening area even if you have poor soil or limited space in your yard to make garden beds. A container can be set anywhere you have good sun, whether it is on a driveway, a patio, or in the middle of your yard. Another distinct advantage is that it gives you the ability to safely set plants out earlier, because they can be more easily protected by moving in the event of a late freeze or frost. Containers are also practical for those who move frequently or live in apartments or condos.

Also, container growing is a good alternative for those who are battling various soil problems, and losing the battle. The primary soil problem in Texas tends to be root knot nematodes. Less prevalent are bacterial wilts, and verticillium and fusarium (systemic fungal diseases).

Suitable container sizes and example varieties

• Indeterminate – 15 gallon preferred (10 gallon at least) – Cherokee Purple, Black Cherry, Sun Gold, Green Giant, Arkansas Traveler
• Compact indeterminate/determinate/semi-determinate – 5 to 10 gallon – Picardy, Rutgers, Break O’Day, Kimberly, Bloody Butcher
• Dwarf/tree-type/compact determinate – 5 to 7 gallon – New Big Dwarf, Lime Green Salad, Citron Compact, Golden Dwarf Champion, Extreme Bush, Taxi
• Micro/mini – 2 to 3 gallon – Red Robin, Tiny Tim

(Indeterminate plants in 15 gallon containers with 18″ diameter, 6′ tall Texas Cages, early in the season – many indets will eventually end up growing past the tops of those cages )

Larger containers are preferable in our hot climate because it cuts down on watering and it also makes for a more stable planting that is less likely to tip over in a storm.

I have found ANY variety can be successfully grown in a container, especially if the container is an adequate size for the plant. I generally avoid 5 gallon buckets and the like for indeterminate varieties and don’t generally recommend them as a “best” practice in our climate. However, it can be done if you are willing to keep up with the high watering and feeding requirements that will result from growing large plants in small containers. I’ve found that much better results are obtained from using a 15 gallon container or larger (10 gal minimum), and prefer to save the 5 gal pots for dwarves or compact determinates.

Cherry types are also good for containers (use 10 gallon minimum) because they are much less susceptible to blossom end rot (BER) than larger fruited varieties.

Mulching

I recommend mulching as it helps to limit splashback of fungal spores from the potting mix onto foliage. It also helps to keep the roots cool and moist, and cuts down on both frequency and amount of watering. My preferred mulch is wheat straw, applied 3-4″ thick. Do not pile it right against the stem, though — leave about an inch or two gap. I particularly like wheat straw because of the light color and hollow structure, which makes an excellent insulator. Shredded leaves and pine straw are other favorites. Shredded paper (non-glossy) can also be used, but be sure to wet it after applying or it will blow away. I prefer to avoid colored paper, unless I know the dye used was soy based. Wood mulch or bark chips can also be used, but avoid the dyed mulches as the dark color will be more likely to absorb heat.

Watering

Containers should not be allowed to dry out completely, as this can cause BER and blossom drop. Don’t wait until your plants are wilting to water. Water every day if necessary, but do not overdo it. When the container starts to feel lighter and the soil is dry a few inches down, this is usually a good indication it is time to water. Also, don’t be tempted to water on a hot day just to cool off the roots, it may cool them off, but it will also smother the plant (roots also like oxygen) and can lead to root rot and any number of other problems.

Using larger containers and mulching can cut down drastically on the time spent performing this task. Water the container and not the foliage. Wetting the foliage unnecessarily can contribute to foliar fungal disease (like Early Blight and Septoria Spot), which can frequently be a problem in our area. Also, water in the morning or early afternoon if you can so that any water that has splashed onto the foliage has a chance to evaporate before the sun sets.

Container color

For our hot climate, containers in light or neutral colors are generally best so the roots don’t bake. I prefer to use white containers, and avoid the use of black.

Suggested container mixes

The use of dirt dug up from your yard, cheap bagged topsoil (frequently lots of rocks, sand, and “mystery” dirt), poor quality potting soils, or bagged mix labeled “garden soil” is not recommended. Nor is the use of excessive amounts of sand, because of the small particle size. Excellent drainage is particularly important in a container, which is why I prefer a peat based mix. Bark fines or finely shredded landscaping mix can be added to this as well to stretch it out.

The compressed bales of Pro-Mix are a favorite of mine, but are becoming increasingly hard to find in the area. Alternatives include Jungle Growth, Metro Mix, and Miracle Gro potting mixes.

Note: Rocks or gravel added to the bottom of a container do not help with drainage. They can even inhibit drainage due to the physics of how soil in a container drains/wicks. This is a common and persistent gardening myth. However, they can be occasionally be useful to add weight to a container to cut down on the possibility of tipping.

My basic recipe for container mix

For every 5 gallons volume of potting mix, add:

• One cup of slow release fertilizer (10-10-10 or the kind labeled for vegetables or tomatoes). Or, TomatoTone per label instructions.
• 1/2 cup of Dolomitic/pelletized lime to help prevent BER — avoid hydrated lime as it can burn your plants
• 10% compost (optional)
• Bark fines — can be up to half of the volume of the mix if desired

Alternative recipe from Al (Tapla) for those who like to make their own completely from scratch

• 3 cu ft pine bark fines (1 big bag)
• 5 gallons peat
• 5 gallons perlite
• 1 cup lime
• 2 cups slow release fertilizer (Osmocote or similar)
• 1/2 cup micro-nutrient powder or 1 gal composted manure

Can potting mix be reused?

While there is no hard and fast rule, I generally prefer not to reuse container mix more than once. If reused, it should be turned over to help bury any fungal spores on the surface, and re-amended (see above recipe for container mix).

Ongoing Fertilization

I prefer to add a little more slow release fertilizer once I see significant fruit set, and also every couple of weeks or so once the plants get large. Alternatively, Miracle Gro or the equivalent can be periodically used at half-strength. So can TomatoTone or any number of products. The important point is that plants in containers require more frequent fertilization because of all the watering involved, which tends to deplete the container mix.

Fertilizers provide three primary nutrients to plants, plus many micronutrients. The three primary nutrients are Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P), and Potassium (K). Nitrogen produces lush, green foliage. Phosphorous is vital for producing a healthy root system to support the plant. Potassium promotes flower and fruit development and is vital for maintaining growth.

Support and stability considerations

It can sometimes be a challenge to properly support a container planting, but can be done. Methods I prefer include the use of a small (18″ diameter) Texas cage placed inside of a large container, a tall 6-8 ft stake, or a cage made of concrete reinforcement wire (CRW) cut to fit inside the container (a small stake may need to be added to attach the CRW cage to for stability).

High winds can be a problem in our area and can cause even a large container to tip over, especially if it is a large indeterminate plant, top heavy and loaded with fruit. It may seem counterintuitive, but right before an impending storm, I prefer to water all my containers if they are a bit on the dry/light side. This helps to make them heavier and less likely to tip over. If your potting mix is light and free-draining, this occasional “overwatering” shouldn’t be a problem. Containers can also be pushed together as a unit to help prevent tipping. Yet another way to cut down on the possibility of tipping is to drive a tall stake next to the pot (or though the bottom of the pot).

Grow Bags

Grow bags are an inexpensive alternative to hard sided containers and are also much easier to store. They can also be reused, especially if you take good care of them. However, they can be more susceptible to tipping, so keep that in mind before deciding to use them. One way to make them more stable would be to run a long pole/dowel through the handles of multiple bags to help keep them together as a unit. They could also be staked. For a grow bag source, see: GrowOrganic.com

(Grow Bag image courtesy of Michael Volk in El Paso, TX)

Earthboxes™

I don’t use Earthboxes, but many do and are pleased with the results. If you use them, be sure to follow the instructions exactly, because every instruction has a specific purpose in ensuring the best results. Use a peat based potting mix like Pro-Mix or Jungle Growth. The mix needs to be light and fluffy to ensure proper upward wicking from the water reservoir below. Also, be sure to put the cover on as instructed so that the system remains sealed and the fertilizer strip you’ll apply per instructions does not get too quickly released into the mix due to rain. Cover should be white side up to help keep the roots cool in our hot climate. Some EB users will also add a strip of dolomitic lime as well, and it is generally recommended to cut down on the possibility of BER. When the plants get large, the EB water reservoir might have to be filled at least once a day in a hot climate.

(Earthbox image courtesy of Araness in Orange, TX)

Earthboxes and any number of accessories designed to work with the system can be purchased from the company who sells them, including plant supports and automated watering systems which attach to a faucet. The quality of the products is good, but the cost can really add up if you are growing a significant number of plants.

You can make your own EB type containers to cut down on the expense, and so that you can have a larger water reservoir than standard to cut down on the need to fill it so frequently. Instructions here: http://www.josho.com/gardening.htm