We are looking forward to the 2010 season and if you haven’t planted your seeds yet, this is probably the last weekend to do it!

If you have any experiences you’d like to share, or post your own article, just post a Comment and we’ll check it out.

-Morgan

Any tomatoes you have on hand can be used. Meaty paste types are not necessary. Got a buildup of cherry tomatoes? Throw ‘em in too.

Recipe continues after the jump.

The recipe is rather flexible, and has been modified slightly for my own preferences. I tend to use what is on hand if I have most of the ingredients and don’t have time or inclination to run to the store. When I made a batch last fall, I didn’t have onions, but plenty of garlic. So, I just doubled the amount of garlic (we really like garlic!) I’ve also made it without oregano and used more basil, added more peppers for a spicier sauce, etc.

I should add that based on reader feedback, if you put fresh basil or oregano leaves or other ingredients on the top like I have pictured, they can burn. It is probably best to combine everything by stirring a bit before you pop your pan(s) into the oven.

Here’s my basic recipe:

• 5-7 pounds of tomatoes, washed – halved or quartered depending on size
• 1 large onion, or two small – diced
• 18-25 garlic cloves, peeled
• 2-3 moderate heat peppers, jalapenos or similar
• 1/4-1/3 cup good quality extra virgin olive oil (I use Colavita)
• 2 Tbs of dried oregano or Italian seasoning – or fresh oregano if available
• 1-2 Tbs dried basil, or large handful of fresh basil
• Combine ingredients in roasting pan(s), and cook at 400 – 450F for 2 to 4 hours to desired consistency – larger batches may take longer
• Salt to taste – I don’t usually find the need to add salt
• Let cool and run through food mill

Peeling and deseeding tomatoes is not necessary. The original recipe suggests coring the tomatoes, but I don’t bother as my Spremy Electric Tomato Strainer does a great job at removing seeds, skin and cores. Be sure and cut off any bad spots, including severe cracking in case mold or bacteria is present.

I usually process several hundred pounds of tomatoes a year, so the Spremy was a great investment for me. However, if you are looking for a more affordable alternative (about $50), some who have tried this recipe say the OXO Food Mill works great too.

Note: If you don’t have a food mill, you can still make this sauce. I would recommend blanching and peeling the tomatoes first and removing the cores, though. Peppers would need to be diced – or use powder. Use a hand-held potato masher or food processor to break the roasted tomatoes up a bit. Finished product will be more chunky than what you would get by using a food mill, but is still delicious.

Tip: To quickly and easily peel the garlic, separate each bulb into individual cloves, and microwave on high for one minute between two paper plates (they may pop a bit, so don’t be startled.) Allow to cool for a few minutes before attempting to remove the clove covers, or you may burn your fingers. This will lightly “roast” the garlic and loosen the skins so that they slip right off. However, if you have a good quality food mill, you can likely throw in the garlic cloves without bothering to peel them first if you wish.

You will need to periodically check on the roasting tomatoes. I like to set a clip-on timer for about 45 min and take a look every time the timer goes off. Stir or mash occasionally to distribute the bottom layers to the top. You do want some light blackening of the cut tomato surfaces to occur, but not burning. The recommended temperature in the original recipe is 450F, but I sometimes roast at 400F so I can extend the time between checking/stirring while I am doing other things. As the sauce starts to really thicken up, you’ll want to pay more frequent attention.

Tip: I use a hand-held potato masher a couple of times during the roasting process, as it seems to speed things up a bit.

Roasted sauce can be made in small or large batches, just adjust the recipe accordingly. I prefer to make very large batches when my harvest starts to pile up, as it’s a quick way to clear oodles of counter space. I save a lot of seeds and like to combine my seed saving with sauce making whenever possible, so I don’t waste the tomatoes after extracting the seeds. Larger batches may take more time, hence the wide range of suggested cooking times. Cooking to a thick consistency will take longer, so will using the lower suggested temperature range.

This sauce is probably only safe to keep in the refrigerator for about 5 – 7 days tops. For longer term storage, put into freezer bags, label and lay the bags flat in a stack in your freezer. I’ve found that a quart sized freezer bag filled to about a 1″ thickness when laid flat is plenty for a dinner for two. Roasted sauce can be pressure canned, but the boiling water bath method is considered unsafe, mainly because of the olive oil. Consult the current Ball Blue Book or other authoritative canning guidelines for recommended times and procedures if you are considering canning the sauce.

35-40 pounds of tomatoes make about a gallon of sauce, but if you don’t cook the sauce down to an almost paste-like consistency as I do, you may end up with a little more volume. A gallon may not sound like a lot of finished product for all those tomatoes, but one cup will sauce about a pound of pasta. Roasted sauce is very concentrated and rich.

When reheating sauce to serve, do not simmer for extended periods of time. Doing so can cook out some of that garden fresh goodness, which was the whole point in making this wonderful oven roasted sauce in the first place. Warm on medium or med-low heat to the desired temperature, then combine with cooked pasta and serve. If adding ground meats (sausage, ground chuck, etc), brown and drain, then combine with sauce and heat.

Our mission at SETTFest is to introduce heirloom tomatoes to Central and South Texas gardeners and farmers alike, dispel the myths that only ‘heat setter’ varieties can be grown here, and offer advice and seeds wherever we can. So it was great to see folks asking lots of questions (including a few stumpers!), gathering seeds, and talking shop.

We are thrilled that more and more folks are bringing tomatoes and other items as well. There was a nice spread of breads, cheeses, pasta salads, etc. This was a tough year for tomatoes in our area due to the heatwave and torrential downpours in early May. But still most folks managed to get something and we enjoyed tasting varieties that others brought. Indeed one of the best varieties at the event was Atkinson.

Thanks all for making this a great event!

View photos of the 2009 SETTFest!

Spring Crop
Start seeds: December 25th – January 15th
Transplant: Feb 21st – March 18th (protect from late frosts if necessary)
Fruit set: April 1st – May 15th
Usual peak harvest: May 15th – July 10th

Fall Crop
Start seeds: June 1st – July 1st
Rooting cuttings: June 15th – July 25th
Transplant: July 21st – August 15th
Fruit set: August 21st – September 21st
Harvest: October 7th – early December (depending on weather)

Vegetable Gardening Calendars

Travis County/Austin area (zone 8b)

Harris County/Houston area (zone 9a-9b)

Houston/Bob Randall Guidelines

N. Central – Metroplex and surrounding areas (zone 7b-8a)

Fermentation?

The classic method of saving seeds is to leave them out in a cup or container for a few days until they start to ferment. They produce a strong smell and develop a “fungus mat”. Because of the smell, some people let their seeds ferment outside. But if we have 100 degree temperatures, that can “cook” the seeds, making them not viable. Plus, you never know how long it’s going to take for the seeds to separate from the tomato solids. If you’re going on a trip or out of town for the weekend, you might come back to dried out, useless seeds. Fermentation really got to be a hassle for me. And moldy tomato seeds grosses out my roommates!

Hybrids?

Seeds should be saved from open pollinated varieties (eg, heirlooms), unless you are willing to take your chances and experiment a bit, as your saved seeds may not be true-to-type. Most of the tomatoes at the grocery store are hybrids (F1) and so there is a good chance you will not get the same tomato when you save seeds and grow them.

Tomatoes should be ripe or close to it. If possible, avoid saving seeds from deformed or “catfaced” tomatoes as they may have resulted from a fused blossom. Since a fused blossom is usually a much larger flower than the typical tomato blossom, there is a higher likelihood it attracted bees or other pollinators. The seeds you save might be cross-pollinated from another tomato and yield unexpected results.

Note: Make sure your work surface, utensils, cups, strainer, and fingernails are free of any stray seeds before you begin and after each seed saving session.

Hint: It is helpful to get a paper plate ready by writing the variety name on it with a permanent marker before you begin, in case you walk away and forget what variety you saved seeds from. Don’t write with a regular ink pen because moisture will cause the variety name to run.

Step-by-Step

1. Select ripe tomatoes of one variety to save seeds from.
2. Cut a hole or X on the bottom of each tomato and squeeze the juice and seeds into a measuring cup.
3. If the seeds and juice from the tomato are less than 1 cup, add water to make 1 cup. Add 1 tablespoon of Oxiclean washing powder for each cup of tomato seeds/pulp/water.

4. After 30-45 minutes, stir and pour seeds through a fine mesh strainer.
5. Rinse off seeds until they no longer feel “slippery”.
6. Use a paper towel to dry off the bottom of the strainer.

7. Turn the strainer upside down and whack it onto a non-coated paper plate to transfer the seeds to the plate.
8. Spread seeds around so they are not all clumped together. This will let the seeds will dry properly. Cover loosely with a paper towel and set out of reach for approximately 1 week or until seeds are dry.
9. Scrape seeds into a paper envelope (such as Coin Envelopes from your local office supply store) and label with variety name, year, and your seed source.

Mailing Seeds

Domestically, it is easy to mail 3-5 packets of seeds in a standard sized business envelope. Because seed packets can slide around in the envelope when handled, it is strongly recommended to take a blank sheet of letter sized paper and tape the seed packets to it in such a way that no two seed packets are overlapping seeds.

Loose seed packets can attract the attention of postal inspectors, not to mention that if all the seed packets slide to one end of the envelope, seeds may be crushed by mail sorting equipment. Bubble mailers may be used if you want to ensure safe arrival of your seeds.

Mailing seeds to other countries poses additional challenges. Padded/bubble mailers are not recommended as they attract attention. One suggestion is to mail individual seed packets inside of greeting or holiday cards.

The Right Soil When they first germinate, tomato seeds are vulnerable to any bacterial or fungal spores which might be present in your growing medium. If shortly after they germinate, your tomato seedlings die, especially with a dark ring just below the soil line, this is damping off. This can be completely avoided by purchasing a sterile soiless seed starting mix. This can be found for ~$4 for an 8 quart bag which will fill a couple of 72 cell flats or a dozen 4″ pots. If you are growing organic transplants, then you will need to create your own soil mix. The peat moss you use will not have a wetting agent. Add 1 tsp of an organic dish soap to 1 gallon of water and water the soil with that.

Place seed starting mix in a bowl and then moisten it with water until it is damp, but not sopping wet. Scoop the mix into your seed starting trays or pots. Ferry Morse sells reasonable seed starting trays with clear plastic domes. We do not recommend peat pots for a variety of reasons. The peat tends to wick water away from the tender seedlings, depriving them of water. Also, the peat pot does not degrade as quickly as the advertising would indicate. If used, the bottom should be cut out with scissors to allow free root growth.

Presoak?

An entirely optional step in seed starting is to pre-soak seeds. Soaking your tomato and pepper seeds in weak tea and seaweed emulsion can increase germination rates and seedling vigor. If you have fresh seeds (less than 5 years old), or you are starting seeds for too many varieties for this to be practical, than this step can, of course, be skipped.

Add a tea bag to a cup of warm water and steep for 5 minutes. Discard the tea bag and add a few drops of Maxicrop liquid seaweed. Arrange several small bowls or cups, add your seeds to each cup, and then add enough of the weak tea to each to moisten the seeds. 12 hours is our recommended soak time. Then sow into moist seed starting mix as described below.

Depth

Tomato and pepper seeds, especially cherry tomato seeds, seem to perform much better when planted extremely shallow — merely 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch deep. I usually arrange the seeds on top of the soil and then with a small tool pull a few strands of the mix over the seeds. One method is to simply drop the seeds on top of the moist seed starting mix and then sprinkle a little bit of dry soilless seed starting mix on top and mist it with a sterilized water bottle until damp.

If you are willing to separate the plants later, then 2-4 seeds can be started in each cell of a 72 cell seed starting tray. Or you can start directly in 4″ pots. The benefit of starting in a smaller cell and then transplanting or “potting up” into a larger pot is encouraging the initial tap root (which goes straight down to the bottom of the pot) to become a more fibrous root system taking up the whole pot.

Tomato seeds germinate at different rates. Cherries can be especially precocious. Pepper seeds prefer to germinate about 10 degrees warmer than tomato plants (ideally 85 F degrees). If you are lucky enough to have a seedling heat mat, then you can start your seeds at the same time. Otherwise, we recommend starting your pepper seeds 2-3 weeks before you start your tomato plants and expect them to take up to 2 weeks to germinate.

We recommend making a map of your seedling tray (including some indication of orientation in case you rotate the tray and forget which end is which!) and labeling the contents. [Downloadable Seedling Maps]

Moisture

Once you have planted your seeds, the biggest challenge may be resisting the temptation to overwater. We recommend not watering the soil again until the seedlings are 2-3 inches tall and have used up most of the water in the soil. This is typically 5-7 days after germination and there will be a noticeable drying of the surface of the soil. Of course if seedlings start to wilt, then provide them with a little water.

If you are starting in trays and a clear plastic dome was provided,
use it (it does not have to be airtight). Once a good number of
seedlings germinate, remove the dome and place the tray under
fluorescent lights for 16 hours per day.

Some growth of green moss on the surface of your seed starting trays is
normal, but this may be a symptom that you may be overdoing it on watering. Also, if you are
anxious about disturbing your seedlings, you can water the bottom tray instead
of from the top. This is called bottom watering.

Fluorescent Lights

Fluorescent light fixtures which accomodate two 48 inch 40 Watt bulbs run $20-30 at Home Depot and Lowe’s (some are labeled 32W but will work just fine). The $15 models at Wal-Mart are of poor quality. If you are starting seedling trays (instead of individual pots), then it is recommended that you buy the light fixture with the widest metal reflector available so as to distribute the light over the entire width of the tray. To the human eye, fluorescent bulbs are bright from any distance, but
in actuality, the light output falls off dramatically over a distance
of just a few inches.

The top leaves of your plants plants should be kept no more
than 1-2 inches below the fluorescent bulbs for 16 hours per day. If you have to go out of town, then a few days of 24 hours will not harm the plants, although a timer might be a good investment. Use chains to raise and
lower the lights, or use old books, DVD cases, etc. to raise and lower plants. Fluorescent lights will not burn the plants even if the leaves touch them.

Standard cool white 40 Watt bulbs run about $4. I use one cool white and one Daylight (warm/natural light) bulb which run about $6. Avoid any of the ‘deluxe’ bulbs as they are more pleasing to the eye but have a lower light output. Also there is no need to purchase expensive Aquarium, Terrarium, or Plant Growth lights as it is strongly recommended to replace your seed starting fluorescent bulbs every year (especially if you are also starting seeds for a fall crop).

A recent development in seed starting involves High Pressure Sodium and Metal Halide lights. These can produce in excess of 400 W of light. With the use of reflective mylar and with the lights 3-4 feet above the plants, a very large number of plants can be started this way. If there is interest in this subject, we can expand on it in a separate article.

It’s a Breeze

Use an oscillating fan to provide a gentle breeze over your seedlings for several hours per day. This will encourage them to grow thicker stems and overall stockier plants. Many major retailers do not carry oscillating fans in December-February as it is a season item. Buy them in the summer.

Fertilization Seedlings should require no fertilizer until their second set of true leaves. Spray the leaves of your 3-4″ tall seedlings with half strength seaweed emulsion i.e. Maxicrop. 1/2 teaspoon can be added to a 32 oz spray bottle (which should be clean and not contain traces of chemicals). This should be the last fertilization needed until the plants are transplanted into the ground.

Potting Up (Transplanting)

If you started in trays, then you will need to transplant up to 4″ pots when the plants have their second or third set of true leaves. Tomato plants are very risilient and if the trays are well-watered about 30 minutes before transplant, then the tomato plants will have had a good drink of water and stand up better to having their roots disturbed during transplant.

The stems of tomato plants have many fine hairs which have the remarkable ability to become roots if buried in soil. Take advantage of this by transplanting your tomato seedlings as deep in the larger pots as you can. We recommend picking off any leaves that will be buried in the soil by this process. If the seedling is not tall enough to have leaves above the surface of the soil, then add some soil to the bottom of the pot.

You should retain some extra plants as “backups” in case a frost wipes out your initial planting.

Hardening Off

Seedlings started under lights must become slowly acclimated to sunlight before they can be planted in the garden. 11am-2pm holds the most brutal sunlight of the day and is the most likely to damage your plants. 1 – 1 1/2 weeks before planting, your seedlings can be moved out into full shade for 1-2 days and then gradually provided with dappled or direct sunlight with gradually increasing times. If evening temperatures are predicted to fall below 45 degrees or high winds are predicted, then seedlings should be moved indoors. Times can be doubled on cloudy days. Here is a hardening off calendar:

[Day 1] Full Shade
[Day 2] 10 minutes of morning sun.
[Day 3] 15 minutes of morning sun. 10 minutes of afternoon sun.
[Day 4] 45 minutes of morning sun. 30 minutes of afternoon sun.
[Day 5] 1 1/2 hour of morning sun. 1 hour of afternoon sun.
[Day 6] 3 hours of morning sun. 2 hours of afternoon sun.
[Day 7] 4 hours of morning sun. 3 hours of afternoon sun.
[Day 8] Ready to plant.

We realize that many folks cannot do the type of babying described
above, but putting the plants in dappled shade (being aware of the
movement of the sun throughout the day) will help. There are several methods of unattended hardening off, including placing some type of protection directly over the plants to allow morning and afternoon sun to reach the plants, but block the searing mid-day sun until your plants are ready for it.

A lawn chair, inverted laundry basket, or boards supported by bricks, paving stones, or inverted 5 gallon buckets can all be used to provide protection from this mid-day sun. Plants can also be sprayed with inert kaolin clay (sold as Surround) mixed with water to provide a protective physical “shell” to reduce sunlight exposure, but will need to be reapplied in case of rain. 50% shade cloth is another good option.

Plants which are not hardened off will exhibit foliage damage 1-2
days after exposure. The characteristic dessication of the leaves from improper hardening off (tan smooth spots where the leaf has dried out and become paper-thin) can
stunt or kill seedlings.

Seedlings are More Vulnerable to Pests

Tender seedlings are vulnerable to such pests as flea beetles and leaf miners. Flea beetles leave behind tiny holes in the leaves. Leaf miners leave zigzagging tracks in the leaves of the seedlings. In both cases, there is no point in spraying the plants with insecticides as the insects which caused the damage are gone by the time you find evidence. Spraying the plants with Surround or dusting the plants with Sevin (Carbaryl) when they are first set out will protect them from most opportunstic insects.

Planting Dates

Seeds should be started so that plants are 10-14″ tall and healthy

at planting time. These are our recommended seed starting dates for
tomato seeds. Remember to subtract 2 weeks for pepper seeds (unless you
use a heat mat).

Houston (inside Beltway 8)-

Houston (west or north of Beltway -

Houston (east or south of Beltway -

Austin -

San Antonio -

Dallas / Ft Worth -

Don’t Trust the Weatherman!

Seedlings should be brought indoors if evening temperatures are predicted to go below 45 F or if high winds are expected. It is important to note that the High and Low temperatures provided by many television newscasts, newspapers, and websites can be very inaccurate and misleading. We cannot encourage you strongly enough to consult the National Weather Service, or Weather Underground to get hour-by-hour predictions of expected temperatures for your area (ZIP code). Weather Underground is particularly pessimistic (they always low-ball evening temperatures) which makes it an especially good indicator.

Can I buy plants?

If you have reached this point of the article and starting your own tomato seeds sounds daunting, or it’s February, you’ll be surprised to know that there are excellent nurseries in the major S.E. Texas cities and surroundings which carry excellent plants. Although I start my own seeds every year, inevitably I do buy a few plants at local nurseries to support the local business and sometimes they have a great variety I hadn’t thought of. It is assumed that plants from local nurseries have already been hardened off and are ready for transplant.

Houston – Inside Beltway 8: Wabash Antiques, Another Place in Time, Southwest Fertilizer and Buchanan’s Native Plants all have an excellent array of tomato and pepper varieties.

Houston – Outside of Beltway 8, RCW Nurseries is starting to carry a good selection of herb and vegetable plants. Cornelius Nurseries, Houston Plants & Garden World and Houston Garden Centers all carry the ubiquitous Chef Jeff’s line of tomato and pepper plants which have some good choices.

Austin – Bloomer’s in Elgin, TX has a fantastic selection. We are currently inquiring about additional nurseries in San Antonio.

San Antonio – We are currently inquiring about the best nurseries in San Antonio.

Dallas/Ft. Worth – Calloway’s Nurseries has nearly 20 locations in and around Dallas, Fort Worth, and Plano. We have not investigated, but presumably they have the Chef Jeff’s line of plants which have some good choices.

When to Plant?

The most common question about growing tomatoes in South East Texas is when to plant. If we wait until all danger of frost has passed (mid-April), then we will get very few tomatoes, especially from late season varieties (most heirlooms). So we must plant out in mid-March and be willing to protect our plants from the occasional cold temperatures. Transplants should be large and healthy. The plants in six packs In late May and June, evening temperatures start to linger in the 70’s. This in addition to high humidity (which denatures the pollen in tomato blossoms)puts an end to fruitset. Most fruitset on your tomatoes will typically occur in late March (if you were able to get your plants out early), April, and early May. It is really imperative to get plants out as early as possible.

Long range weather forecasts should be consulted before planting out. Evening temperatures should not go below the mid-40’s. Once you plant out, it is inevitable that we will have at least one very cool or cold night. In the event of a frost prediction (35 degrees or below), blankets, walls of water, or tarps should be installed during the day to trap as much heat as possible. Plastic coverings should not be allowed to touch plants as they will burn/damage the plants when the cold sets in.

If you have too many plants to protect using the above methods, then constant misting with hose water or sprinklers has been shown to keep plants from succumbing to frost damage as low as 33 degrees. This will increase the amount of fungal problems (specifically early blight) during the season, but it is worth it if your plants can be saved (especially if you did not grow extras as “backups”).

We have found that timely planting is every bit as important as variety selection, and a common mistake new tomato growers in Texas make is to plant too late. Even a couple of weeks can make a major difference in getting a decent harvest from any variety before the heat kicks in, even from some of the “heatsetter” types – which frequently don’t taste very good. Plant early! Protect plants if necessary. In Central and South Texas, a good target plant out date is usually the first to second week of March. This also means you will need to get your seeds started before Jan 15. Planting out in late March or early April is usually too late.

Also, different people define tomato success in various ways. I primarily grow for taste, and have a large garden with plenty of plants, so the productivity of any one plant or variety is not a major concern of mine. If a tomato is not very good to great tasting to me, I probably won’t grow it again no matter how productive the variety was.

Others may only have room for just a few plants and so productivity is likely going to be a major concern. A superb tasting variety that only gives a gardener 5-6 tomatoes per plant may not be considered so much of a “success” if they’ve only got ten tomato plants total in the garden and a large family who loves to eat plenty of tomatoes.

We come across a lot of blanket statements out there like “heirloom tomatoes don’t do well in Texas” and “it is better to grow hybrids”. However, we’ve found that almost any tomato variety can be grown here when planted at the right time and properly cared for. It is true that some varieties are noticeably more productive than others, but this is no reason to exclude heirloom varieties from your garden in favor of hybrids, because some heirloom or open pollinated varieties can be plenty productive too. A wise gardener grows a variety of different tomatoes to find which do the best for him or her in terms of productivity, flavor, and other factors.

We encourage people to grow different varieties and try new things, but here is a short list of some fairly reliable and productive tomatoes that we also like the taste of:

• Jet Star — F1 hybrid medium fruited red variety developed in 1948 by Harris Seed Co.; widely available in seed packets and plants have been spotted at major retailers and some nurseries
• Arkansas Traveler — An excellent dark pink medium fruited tomato developed and released by the University of Arkansas in 1971; 4-6 ft tall plant; plants are available almost universally at better nurseries
• Gregori’s Altai — Heirloom Russian variety; large pink beefsteaks on a 4-6 ft tall plant; exceptionally early
• Break O’Day — 7-8 oz uniform red globes with very good flavor and productivity on compact 4 ft plants
• Momotaro — F1 hybrid pink, tennis ball sized globes with great flavor and productivity on 4-6 ft tall plants
• Sun Gold — F1 hybrid goldish-yellow cherry tomato; extremely productive on a very large plant — 8-12 feet
• Black Cherry — Dusky purplish-dark cherry tomato; very productive on a large plant — 6-8 ft tall; developed by the late Vince Sapp of Tomato Growers Supply

Jet Star	Arkansas Traveler
Gregori’s Altai	Break O’Day
Momotaro	Sun Gold
Black Cherry

Here is a short list of some of our top favorites on taste alone. We usually get at least 8 good tomatoes minimum per plant from all the varieties listed by planting early, sometimes a lot more:

• Brandywine (sometimes referred to as Pink Brandywine)
• Prue
• Cherokee Purple (or Indian Stripe, similar)
• Earl’s Faux
• Stump of the World
• Wes
• Aunt Gertie’s Gold

Note: Varieties recommended above are just a few we like and are by no means an inclusive list of our favorites. Also, we’ve primarily listed varieties that have at least fair commercial availability for the seed at this time.

There are several reputable sources for tomato seeds, but three we particularly like based on their selection and service are Tomato Growers Supply, Victory Seeds, and Seed Savers Exchange. All of these companies are convenient to order from online, germination rates are good, crossed seeds are infrequent, and service is prompt, dependable, and courteous.

Tomato Growers Supply has a great selection of both open-pollinated/heirloom and hybrid tomato, pepper, and eggplant seeds.

Victory Seeds is known for having the most complete Livingston tomato variety collection around and has a fantastic selection of heirloom and historical tomato varieties.

Seed Savers Exchange started out as a non-profit organization to save historically important fruit, vegetable, and flower varieties which were quickly being replaced by commercial choices. This mission continues, but they have branched out into commercial seed and plant sales. Many heirloom seed vendors owe their beginnings to the SSE.

Other vendors to consider for vegetable seeds include:

Sand Hill Preservation is known for their extraordinary melon varieties and poultry selection, while their tomato catalog selection contains many varieties which remain difficult to find outside of private collectors.

Orders for Sand Hill must be submitted via snail mail (no online ordering), and only checks and money orders are accepted. They also do not take orders from August 15 to December 25, which can be a bit inconvenient for us Texas growers. Quantities are generous and prices are very reasonable.

Marianna’s Heirloom Seeds specializes in some of the more unusual varieties of tomato seed. Her selection of eggplant and peppers is also good, and Marianne carries seed for several sweet Italian frying type peppers, which we have found generally do better here in Texas than bell types. Online ordering is available (via PayPal).

Additional Seed Vendors

• Johnny’s Selected Seeds
• Gourmet Seed International
• Wilhite Seed
• Heirloom Seeds (in PA)
• Tatiana’s Tomato Seeds
• Wild Boar Farms

Plant Sources

If you are looking for a mail order source that has a great selection of well-grown open pollinated and heirloom transplants, check out Selected Plants.

Houston (Inside Loop 610) nurseries have gone out of their way to distinguish their offerings with unique choices of tomato and pepper seedlings you’ll be hard-pressed to find anywhere else.

• Wabash Antiques
• Another Place in Time
• Southwest Fertilizer
• Buchanan’s Native Plants

Houston (Outside Loop 610) nurseries all carry a selection of tomato varieties including the ubiquitous Chef Jeff’s line of tomato and pepper plants which have some good choices.

• RCW Nurseries (249@8)
• Plants for All Seasons (249@Louetta)
• Cornelius Nurseries (1960)
• Houston Plants & Garden World (Several)

One good choice for Austin and surrounding areas is Bloomer’s in Elgin, TX. They grow and sell an eclectic mix of tomato and other vegetable varieties.

Another nursery I recently discovered in Austin that is worth checking out for tomato and other vegetable and herb transplants is The Natural Gardener. Their selection of organic amendments (both bagged and bulk) is amazing, and they brew compost tea on-site, which is available for sale Fri-Sun.

We are currently inquiring about other nurseries in Austin as well as San Antonio.

Dallas, Fort Worth, and Plano have nearly 20 Calloway’s Nurseries which carry the Chef Jeff’s line of tomatoes and other veggies.

Please let us know if you have had a positive experience at any local nurseries in Central or South Texas that are worthy of mention on this website.

NOTE – Just because a vendor is not listed does not necessarily mean they aren’t a good source. We’ve merely listed some recommendations based on companies we have personally dealt with in the past and been pleased with. To find out more information about any mail order vendor you may have questions/concerns about, go to The Garden Watchdog and look them up.

While we do grow a few dwarf and determinate tomato varieties, the vast majority of the tomato varieties we grow are indeterminate, producing 5-10′ tall plants. The cone-shaped tomato cages found stacked floor to ceiling at big box retail stores are fine for the smaller varieties, but absolutely will not support our larger plants.

Here, we present the methods we prefer or recommend for adequately supporting indeterminate or semi-determinate varieties. We’ll discuss the advantages and disadvantages of each as well:

• Texas Tomato Cages™
• Concrete Reinforcement Wire (CRW) cages
• Galvanized “C” Cages
• Florida Weave
• PVC Cages
• Staking
• Cattle Panels

Texas Tomato Cages™

These premium cages are made of galvanized metal (little or no rust), foldable for easy storage, and solidly constructed. The cages come in two sections, a bottom and a top. They are also expensive (nearly $24 per cage including shipping and tax), but will last a lifetime if properly taken care of.

The standard/large cage is 24″ in diameter and 6′ tall. We also occasionally like to use the 18″ wide cages for containers or some of the more droopy foliaged heart/paste varieties like Prue or Wes. Really, the only disadvantage to these is the cost — in our opinion these are by far the best ready-to-use cages on the market. Visit Texas Tomato Cages website for more information.

(Texas cages in my ‘07 garden)

Concrete Reinforcement Wire (CRW) Cages

These are also a great way to support plants. However, you will need to make them yourself (use caution and wear a long sleeved shirt, gloves, and eye protection when cutting the wire) and they are not foldable, so will take up a fair amount of room in your yard in the off-season, especially if you grow a lot of plants.

They will last many years (we have heard of folks who still use CRW cages they made 20 years ago), although they do rust. One way to somewhat mitigate the storage space they will take up is to make some of the cages a slightly smaller diameter, so that they can be stored inside of the larger ones.

It is generally recommended to make a 24″ diameter cage, but some prefer them a bit smaller. There is no need to cut off the bottom so that the cages can be stuck into the ground a few inches, as if will not make the cages stable enough for our occasional high winds, and you will lose a bit of cage height by doing so. Stabilize the cages using lengths of rebar driven at least a foot into the ground and secured to the cages with wire or zip ties.

(Photos of Earl’s Faux and Aunt Gertie’s Gold courtesy of Earl Cadenhead in Columbus, OH)

Galvanized “C” Cages

Galvanized fence is cheap and comes in 50, 100, and 150 foot rolls up to 5 feet tall. The main benefit of galvanized fence is that it is lightweight, nearly as strong as the heavier Concrete Reinforcing Wire (as described above) and does not rust. The drawback, which has kept some people from seriously considering them for cages, is that the fence holes are a mere 2″ x 4″ — too small to accommodate any but the smallest of hands.

The solution Morgan found is to prop the ends of the cage open with lengths of heavy wire. This gap allows tending to the plants and harvesting. Cages should be zip-tied together once the plants start getting taller. Another solution (pictured below) is to add T-posts to your garden bed and attach the cage ends to them. Either way, at ~$80 for 20 cages and a couple hours of work, it is one of the cheapest cage solutions we’ve seen.

Tip: Galvanized fence comes tightly wound. To unspool it, ask a friend or use a couple of bricks to secure the roll while you unroll and flatten sections of it by walking on it. It will still have enough “spring” to form a circle once released.

Hint: Use heavy wire snips to cut the fence. A 2 foot wide cage would require just over 6 feet of material. But since we are leaving an approximate 1 foot gap in each cage, then we should cut lengths of fence approximately 5 feet by 5 feet.

(Morgan’s Galvanized “C” Cages, anchored together using zip ties)

(Photo courtesy of Bully in Michigan, “C” Cages anchored using posts)

Florida weave

Requiring less maintenance than staking and able to support more plants at a lower cost, Florida Weave is a process of “weaving” tomato plants using heavy garden twine between stakes (typically placed between every other plant) to support and contain the plants.

There is still a bit more work involved when compared to just caging. Twine will need to be added periodically to support the plants as they grow, also, the plants will need to be trained into the weave. For instructions, see How Do I Use Florida Weave?

(Photo courtesy of Michael Gunn in Pasadena, Texas)

PVC Cages

PVC cages are made from lengths of PVC and connectors. These are comparable in cost to Texas cages, plus there is some work and time involved in making them. In addition, the components have to be reassembled each year, if one is disassembling the cages at the end of the growing season. However, they are very sturdy and are presented as one of many support alternatives. See Tom Matkey’s PVC Tomato Cages for pictures and instructions.

(Photos courtesy of Tom Matkey)

Staking

Staking is a frequently recommended means of supporting tomato plants, however, it requires a fair amount of maintenance for indeterminate tomato varieties. Six to eight foot stakes driven at least a foot into the ground are recommended.

You will need to periodically tie up the plants to the stakes using garden twine or the stretchable green garden tape – really, anything you have on hand that will not cut into the plants can be used, some even cut up old worn out t-shirts into strips and use that as ties. Wooden stakes can be used, but since termites are so prevalent in our area, they may not last long unless they are treated wood. We generally prefer the 8ft green plastic coated metal stakes which can be found at many large home improvement stores. Metal T-posts can also be used as well if you can find ones that are at least 6′ tall for indeterminates, because you will lose 1′ driving them in to make them stable.

(Photo courtesy of “Grub” Lockwood in Australia, staked tomato plants and misc vegetable containers)

Cattle Panels

Neither one of us has personally used cattle panels to support plants, but thought it might be worthy of mention in order to provide another good alternative to support indeterminate plants. We have seen instances where tomato gardeners made a huge garden arch with a panel and planted their tomato plants on the outside. We’ve also seen instances where folks put long lengths of panel in their beds or rows and then shored the panels up with posts every few feet. If using this method, you’ll need to periodically tie up your plants to the panels and/or train them into the panels.

Sprawling

You may be tempted to allow your tomato plants to sprawl along the ground, as they do in their native environment. However, we have found that this does not work particularly well in our humid South East Texas climate.

Disease pressure here is high due to our heat, humidity, and occasional torrential spring and early summer rains. Plants and fruits will be more susceptible to Early Blight, Anthracose, and other assorted rots and fungal diseases. If you intend to sprawl, be prepared to grow extra for the slugs, birds, and other critters. Plant spacing would need to be quite a bit more generous than with caged or staked plants, allowing at least 5 feet between rows and 4 feet between plants within a row. A heavy layer of mulch would be a must.

The most common and problematic diseases of tomato plants in Central and South Texas are fungal foliage (rather than systemic) diseases such as Early Blight and Septoria Leaf Spot. We also occasionally see some minor Bacterial Spot/Speck, but have not found that these usually prevent the possibility of obtaining a good harvest here.

Early Blight

We may also encounter various fruit rots and spots later in the season, especially if rains are heavy. This can be due to a variety of reasons, including late blight, advanced/untreated early blight, pythium and alternaria rots, anthracnose, etc. Good cultural practices, including mulching, removing diseased fruits/foliage, and frequent picking can cut down on the frequency of fruit rots.

Blossom End Rot is not a disease at all but is instead a physiological issue with nutrient uptake. BER is typically caused by uneven watering/moisture and usually goes away later in the season. Its effects can be somewhat mitigated through proper watering techniques. We have found that the application of Dolomitic (not hydrated) lime can also be helpful, but you may not need it. If in doubt, have a soil test done first.

Blossom End Rot

Root Knot Nematodes can occasionally be a problem, especially for those with sandy soil. Nematodes cause root galling and affect the ability of the roots to uptake water and nutrients. Signs of a nematode infestation are visible bumps (galls) on the roots, wilting, yellowing of leaves, and stunted plants. Commonly suggested methods to control nematodes include planting cover crops of elbon rye, marigolds, or brassicas, but results vary. Amending the soil with lots of organic matter may also help, as well as rotating crops.

Some folks are getting good to great results by pretreating planting areas using mustard based products such as Dazitol, or even by just working some mustard powder into the planting hole when setting out their transplants. If you have problems with nematodes, yet another option is to grow in containers.

Actinovate might also be worth a try, and there is some anecdotal evidence out there to suggest that it might help to create a favorable environment for the roots to thrive and resist RKN. Adding sugar or molasses to the planting hole can also help.

Another option is to grow Nematode tolerant varieties (frequently hybrids) denoted by a “N” following the variety name in the catalog or on a plant tag description. However, we have found that most N tolerant varieties may not always be the most flavorful. Some we do like for taste include Sun Gold, Sweet Quartz, Mortgage Lifter VFN, and Momotaro — just to name a few.

Note: Tolerance does not mean complete resistance. If the infestation is severe, even N tolerant plants will eventually succumb, but it can buy you some time — perhaps enough time to get a good harvest.

Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus (TSWV) is a devastating tomato disease for some folks in the Panhandle, but is not generally seen that much in Central and South Texas at this time. TSWV is transmitted to tomato plants via thrips. Ways to minimize the possibility of TSWV include keeping weeds mowed and avoiding plantings of known host plants close to or in your gardening area. Specifically, be aware that marigolds are a common ornamental host plant for thrips (and spider mites) in our area, even though this goes somewhat against old garden lore that suggests marigolds are a good “companion” plant for tomatoes.

Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus courtesy MSUCares

Systemic fungal diseases might include Fusarium and Verticillium wilts. These are both in the soil and infect plants via the root system. Treatment options tend to be limited for both of these fungal wilts, but luckily, they are rather uncommon in our area. Bacterial wilts are also systemic, and also tend to be uncommon in our area.

General Disease Prevention Suggestions

• Watering — Water plants in the morning or early afternoon whenever possible, and water the soil, not the foliage. Do not be tempted to overwater. Water deeply and infrequently from the very beginning to train your plants, as this will tend to cause them to drive their roots deep (to seek water), which will lead to healthier plants that are better able to fight off various stresses. We generally prefer to water our plants no more than once every 4-5 days or so, even during the worst drought weather and hot temps. Soaker hoses are our preferred method of watering plants.
• Location — If at all possible, site your plants where they get good early morning sun so that foliage dries out quickly from any accumulation of overnight rain or morning dew.
• Mulch — Mulching can help in limiting splashback of fungal spores onto the foliage from the soil. It can also assist you in your efforts to water deeply and infrequently as a layer of mulch will significantly cut down on evaporation. Just be careful not to pile up too much mulch right up next to the stem — be sure to leave a gap of an inch or two to avoid stem rot. Several inches of pine or wheat straw, coastal hay, shredded black-and-white newspaper, shredded leaves, and untreated pine bark are possible mulch choices. Ideally, install your soaker hoses first, then put mulch on top of them to keep any wetting of the bottom foliage to a minimum.
• Spacing — Space plants 24″ to 36″ apart for proper airflow. This will tend to limit the chances of disease from spreading from plant-to-plant and will also avoid areas of dense foliage between plants where insects may hide.
• Removing diseased foliage — Remove and dispose of diseased foliage on your plants periodically to minimize the possibility of fungal disease spreading to the rest of your plants. Do not add diseased foliage to compost piles.
• Selective pruning — We generally don’t prune to a specific pattern such as a central leader or “suckering”. We have found that it is wise to leave most of the foliage on for both maximum photosynthesis and protection of the fruits from sunscald. However, we do perform light cleanup of foliage and occasionally some suckers below the first fruit or flower cluster (or the bottom 12″ of the plants, if first fruit set occurs higher up for whatever reason); as this can be helpful in allowing the plants to dry out more quickly after rains and morning dew. If plants become extremely cramped in their cages to the point that good airflow is inhibited, light thinning of the foliage is recommended.


Sunscald

• Daconil — Early in the season, we usually use a fungal preventative called Daconil (Chlorothalonil) to help the plants get off to a good start and reach a critical mass. Later in the season, we frequently don’t bother to continue spraying plants if they look healthy after significant fruit set has been achieved — especially in a dry year. Daconil is a non-systemic fungicide that coats the foliage in order to limit fungal spore attachment.

  Daconil is not a cure-all, and will not reverse existing disease present on foliage. It is best used as a preventative from the get-go, applied early and regularly, if at all. Daconil can usually be found at most box stores or gardening centers labeled as either Ortho Garden Disease Control or Daconil in a 29.6% concentration. Mix up small batches following the instructions. Pre-mixed spray bottles of Daconil have poor application and are not cost effective if you are growing more than a couple of plants.

Pests

Stink bugs and Leaf-footed bugs are frequently a problem in our area because they will damage the fruit, leaving behind inedible corky white spots. Soap sprays and neem oil can help in controlling the immature bugs (nymphs), but may not have always much of an effect on mature bugs. Bugs and nymphs should be removed from plants and squashed whenever you see them. They can also be knocked into a bucket of very soapy water, or vacuumed off using a hand-held vacuum. Surround, a finely milled kaolin clay product which is mixed with water and sprayed onto the plants, will also tend to repel them. Trap crops such as millet can sometimes be effective if the stink bugs find those crops more attractive. Then, you can kill them on the millet. Chemical controls for stink bugs include Ortho Bug-b-Gon Max (Bifenthrin) and Sevin (Carbaryl).

Adult leaf-footed bugs

Leaf-footed nymphs

Note: Not every insect encountered in the garden is an enemy. Assassin Bugs can look similar in appearance to leaf-footed or stink bugs from a distance, but have distinct differences in leg formation and other distinguishing characteristics. Wheel bugs, a type of assassin bug, have a serrated “wheel” protruding from the top of the thorax. They are not harmful to your tomatoes, and are in fact a highly beneficial insect which will prey on many other insects in your garden. Assassin bugs usually travel alone which can be used to help identify them. Nymphs look similar to leaf-footed and stink bug nymphs, so keep that in mind and attempt to make a proper ID before reaching for a pesticide.

Keep an eye out for Cornworms and Fruitworms, as they will tend to bore into the fruits and cause damage. More often than not, fruitworms will eventually find your tomato plants, as will Tomato Hornworms. Hornworms can eat an amazing amount of foliage relative to their size, to the point that just a few insects can severely defoliate and damage your plants.
Note: If you find a hornworm that has been parasitized by Braconid wasps (white eggs on its back), leave it be, as these are beneficial wasps that will kill the hornworm before it does substantial damage.

B.T. (Bacillus Thuringiensis) is an organic dust (Dipel Dust) or liquid concentrate which will help to get these pests under control, that is best used early and regularly in the season to keep the population under control before they have a chance to multiply and do serious damage. Note: B.T. does not kill on contact. It is ingested by caterpillars when they feed on the foliage.

Fruitworm damage

Hormworm

Both Spider Mites and Whiteflies can sometimes be a problem, but usually tend to be less problematic in our area than the above-mentioned pests. Spider mites are much more frequently seen during dry/drought years, or in the more arid areas of Texas. Both can usually be controlled with regular use of soap sprays or neem oil, but it is important to become familiar with the early signs of damage — dulling of foliage and/or rasping (tiny lighter spots on leaves) — so you can treat if necessary before the population gets a foothold and does major damage to your plants.

A magnifying hand lens may be helpful in spotting them early on – look on the undersides of the leaves for moving dots and thin wispy webbing. We have found that severe spider mite infestations cannot always be effectively treated using soap sprays or neem oil, but we have had good success in the past using Pyganic (pyrethrin).

Note: Overuse of the broad spectrum insecticide Sevin has the potential to cause mite problems down the road, as it kills other insects that prey on them (Sevin is not effective against spider mites). You can end up with a double whammy effect by using it if your garden is prone to mite problems. Just keep that in mind before reaching for the Sevin dust and regularly coating your plants in it as a general all-purpose bug preventative.

Suggested links

• Texas A&M Tomato Problem Solver
• University of Florida (IFAS Extension) tomato pest/disease guides
• AVRDC photo gallery of tomato diseases
• Cornell Vegetable MD Online